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| Gili Kedis, Sekotong |
Lembar is Lombok's main port for ferries, tankers and Pelni liners coming in from Bali and beyond. Though the ferry port itself is scruffy, the setting think azure inlets ringed by soaring green hills is stunning.
However, there's no reason to linger, with good transport connections to Mataram and Senggigi. If you need cash, stop by the BNI bank, 100m from the harbour's entrance.
Bemo shuttle regularly between Lembar and the Mandalika terminal in Cakra (IDR30.000). From there switch to an Ampenan- bound bemo (IDR5.000), where you can get another to Senggigi (IDR5.000). There are also regular shuttles (per person IDR50.000) connecting Senggigi and Lembar. A taxi from Mataram is IDR100.000.
Ferries run hourly, day and night, to Bali (child/Adult/motorbike/car : IDR29.000/IDR46.000/IDR129.000/IDR917.000, five hours).
Southwestern Peninsula
The sweeping coastline that stretches west of Lembar is blessed with boutique leeps on deserted beaches and tranquil offshore island set in azure waters. Pearl Beach, Dive zone's new resort on Gili Asahan and Cocotino's offer diving, which is fun if not spectacular.
And whether you are a diver or not, you can waste weeks here among the pearl farms, salty old mosques, friendly locals and relatively pristine island - three of which have accomodation. Our favorites are Gili Gede, and the wonderful GIli Asahan, where soothing winds gust, birds flutter and gather in the grass just before sunset, muted calls to prayer rumble, stars and moonbeams bathe the night in sweet tenderness, and silence is deep and nourishing.
The only blot on the landscape is the goldrush town of sekotong. The hills above Sekotong are rich in the precious metal, and up to 6000 locals mined ilegally here in huge open-cast pits (using mercury) until a crackdown in December 2009.
Unofficial and not so clandestine mining still continues despite government opposition and environmental damage. You'll see some of these crude goldmines riddle the rugged hills as you follow the narow (but paved) coastal road, along the contours of the peninsula, skirting white-sand beaches on your way to Tanjung Desert (Desert point) one of Asia's legendary surf breaks.
Sleeping & Eating
There are a few hotels and resorts sprinkled along the southwest coast, though the best beaches and lodgings are on the sweet offshore islands. Yo'll eat where you sleep.
MAINLAND
Less a working community, and more an informal surf camp, only one of the three sleepong options on Tanjung Desert even have a phone. When the swell comes, it's first come, first surf. If these spots are all booked up - and it does happen, you'll have to nest in nearby Labuhan Poh where there are a handful of decent choices. Grower Warung (Tanjung Desert, mains IDR25.000-IDR45.000) offer simple, basic meals on the cheap.
Bola Bola Paradis
Call : 08175787355; www.bolabolaparadis.com ; location Jl Raya Palangan Sekotong, Pelangan; IDR350.000-IDR500.000). Just west of Pelangan, this nice inn has super clean ocatagonal bungalows on grassy palm-shaded grounds that bleed into the sand, and comfortable air condition rooms with tiled floors and private patios in the main lodge building. It also has an aromatic kitchen recommended for spicy Indonesian food.
Cocotino's
Call : 081907972401; www.cocotinos-sekotong.com ; location Jl Raya Palangan Sekotong, Tanjung Empat; rate villas from IDR1.500.000/IDR3.000.000; include AC wifi.
The mainland newcomer, this resort has an oceanfront location, private beach and high quality bungalows (some withs lovely outdoor bathrooms), though not all have seaviews. There's a profesional dive shop and a full spa here too. Walk-in for significant discounts.
Desert Point Bungalow
Tanjung Desert, rate from IDR350.000. There are seven clean woven bamboo and thatched bungalows with bamboo beds, hammocks o the porch and private baths attached. They even have on attractive, three sided shelter stilted above the beach.
Desert Point Lodge
Call 08786104439; Tanjung Desert; rate IDR250.000. Thatched, fan cooled bungalows with tiled outdoor baths, four poster beds and private wooden decks set on a lawn in a blooming garden.
Hendra Surf Camp
Ttanjung Desert, rate IDR100.000, simply a wooden house where you can crash on a mattress on the floor of a cell like room with thin walls. Simple meal get rave reviews.
ISLANDS
Pearl Beach Bungalow
Call 081339544998 or 081907247696; www.divezone-lombok.com; Gili Asahan/bungalows include breakfast IDR370.000/IDR570.000. A brand new resort on a private island with a wonderful sweep of white sand leading to a turqoise sea.
The cottages are simple, bamboo affairs with tasteful outdoor baths and a hammock on the porch. The bungalows, however, are quite chic, with polished yellow concrete floors, soaring celling, queen beds, gauzy mosquito netting, sliding glass doors, a river rock garden and plumeria trees in the outdoor bath, and a fabulous day bed swing on the wood porch. It's owned by the folks behind Dive Zone, mainland Lombok's best dive shop. So yes, there is diving. Electricity from 6pm to 6am only.
Madak Belo Bungalow
Call : 087864712981 or 081805549637; www.madak-belo.com; Gili Gede; rate bungalows IDR150.000/IDR350.000. Here's a sensational French hippie-chic paradise with three rooms upstairs in the main wooden and bamboo lodge. They share a bath with wash basins crusted with shells and a magnificent bamboo laounge area strung with hammocks, and blessed with a perfect white shand, turquoise sea view. It also has two spacious private bungalows with queen beds and private baths. Meals are delicious. Electricity only runs for about eight hours each day.
Via Vacare Bungalow
Call 081915904275; www.vivacare.com; Gili Gede; bungalows/ rate including meals IDR750.000/IDR250.000. A secret yoga retreat with four spacious, simple and stylish octagonal bungalows. Bacpacker digs are a comfy mattress on the floor and a mosquito net in a large opensided longhouse. There's no beach to speak of, but you can go swimming at high tide. There's an open-air yoga pagoda, and fine home-cooked meals. Management will arrange free shuttle to the island from nearby Tebowong.
Getting There & Away
Bemo run between Lembar and Pelangan (IDR20.000, 1,5 hours) via Tembowong and Sekotong every 30 minutes until 5pm. West of Pelangan, transport is less regular, but the route is still served by infrequent bemo until Selegang.
Taxi boats (per person IDR15.000) shuttle between Tembowong (on the mainland) to Gili Gede. You'll see them bobbing in the sea near the Pertamina station. Chartered boats also connect Tembowong with Gili Asahaan (IDR350.000 return). Pearl beach will organise your transport to GIli Asahan from the mainland if you book in advance.
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